Tracking Poachers Illegally Trapping China's Rare Wild Birds.
The conservationist's gaze sweeps over miles of open meadows, searching for signs of life in the pre-dawn darkness.
He speaks in a hushed tone as they attempt to locate a concealed position in the grasslands. In the distance, the sprawling city of Beijing slumbers on. As we wait, the only sound is our own breath.
Suddenly, as the sky begins to brighten before dawn, we hear footsteps. The hunters have arrived.
Trapped
In the skies above us, a multitude of winged travelers, many so small that they could rest in the cup of a hand, are journeying southward for winter.
They have utilized the warmer months in northern regions, feasting on bugs and berries. As the year winds down and cold breezes bring the early cold of winter, they head to more temperate climates to breed and eat.
China is home to over 1500 bird species, representing roughly thirteen percent of the world's total – over eight hundred of those are migratory birds. Several of the major migration routes they follow intersect in China.
The area of meadow being monitored, on the fringes of the Chinese capital, is an refuge for small birds – farther in and the urban landscape offer scant chance to rest among clusters of concrete.
It is also an oasis for the poachers and their "barely visible nets", so delicate you can hardly spot them.
A net we almost encountered was stretched across a large section of the field and held up with bamboo poles. In the middle, a meadow pipit was desperately trying to untangle itself, but the more it moved, the more its feet got ensnared.
It was a protected songbird, a species under protection in China, and an important "bio-indicator" – meaning if its population is healthy, so is its habitat.
Hunting the Hunters
Silva, who is in his 30s, carries out this mission for free using his personal funds. He has given up on many sleeping hours to set songbirds free, and he has spent the last decade urging the police in Beijing to enforce the law.
"In the early days, authorities were indifferent," he remarks.
So he recruited volunteers who were concerned and formed a group known as the Beijing Migratory Bird Squad. He held community gatherings and invited the heads of the relevant authorities. These consistent and determined acts of advocacy appear to have worked. The police discovered that apprehending illegal hunters also helped in identifying other kinds of criminal activity.
"We found our objectives became partially aligned," Silva says, while pointing out that implementation remains inconsistent.
This fascination with birds began during childhood. He grew up in the 1990s in a very different Beijing.
He remembers exploring the fields on the city's edges where he encountered birds, frogs and snakes. "However, beginning in the 2000s, the transformation was dramatic."
Rapid economic growth brought a huge influx of rural workers to cities. This fast-paced development meant grasslands were seen as empty places to build, not protected zones to conserve.
The change stunned Silva. The grasslands started disappearing, as did the habitats they supported.
"I decided back then to work in conservation and I followed this course," he says.
This has not made for an simple journey. One of Beijing's biggest bird dealers found out he was under scrutiny by Silva and retaliated.
"He gathered several of his accomplices who confronted me and assaulted me," Silva remembers. He says he reported to the police but the perpetrators were not brought to justice.
He has also seen the departure of his army of volunteers over the years. This work demands patience and night vigils. Silva says few people are willing to take on the challenging and occasionally risky job.
"My life is devoted to this," he says. "I treat it as a mission because if you want to address this major issue, you must give it your all. You can't do it part-time."
He says donations covers some of the costs – over 100,000 yuan a year – but donations have dipped because of the slowing economy.
So he has found new ways to hunt the hunters.
He analyzes satellite imagery to find the paths worn away by the poachers. He charts these against the birds' flight paths and looks for areas where they may stop for the night. The satellite images can even show netting setups which can catch hundreds of small birds at night.
"Certain prized species sell for a high price," Silva says. "In big cities like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to keep birds are now often affluent."
Although there are wildlife laws in place, Silva argues the fines to punish the crime do not outweigh the financial benefits of trapping and trading songbirds.
Owning a pet bird was – and for some people in China, still is – a mark of prestige. This originates from the Qing dynasty. Nobles and elites would build elaborate bamboo cages for their birds.
This custom that persists mainly among retired men in their 60s or 70s. Silva says older Chinese people don't realise they are breaking the law, or grasp that so many more birds had to die in a trap so they could buy a caged bird.
"This generation often lacked enough to eat in their youth. Now with some disposable income, they have adopted the habit and custom of keeping birds in cages," he says. "The nation progressed so fast, there was no time to raise awareness about ecology. Once adults' values are set, they're really hard to change."
Apprehended
On a long low wall in Beijing, a vendor has several tiny enclosures with chirping songbirds.
Another man is positioned near a local market holding a bird cage covered by a dark cloth. He informs passers-by discreetly that his songbird is rare, worth nearly 1900 yuan.
This offers a view of an traditional side of the city where informal vendors have established a niche trade.
The path alongside the water extends over several miles and on a sunny weekday morning, there were shoppers browsing everything from old trinkets to false teeth.
Information suggested that protected birds could be purchased in a small park. The location was not concealed.
Loud music played from a speaker under the low trees where a troop of elderly ladies were performing a traditional dance. Close by several men, all over 50, had gathered with bird cages – some had two or three in their hands. Most were concealed by dark cloth.
But today there would be no transactions because the police had appeared. They were interviewing the bird owners and recording details. Unyielding, one man claimed he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his